All buffed and polished from the gaslight-era chandeliers to the menu, Gage & Tollner is once again a compelling destination.
Gage & Tollner Is Ready at Last for the 21st Century
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By Pete Wells
Walk along Fulton Mall in Downtown Brooklyn. Ignore the wig shop, the pawnshop, the tattoo parlor, the second-floor dentists, the cellphone stores. Look both ways, twice, and dart across the narrow street, keeping an eye on the double-length buses that shoot by just inches from the curb. You’ll pass sheets of plywood and for-lease signs. When you see two tall white columns holding up a porch, turn in and give the revolving door a shove. It will wheel around and deposit you in the 19th century.
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